Hot new climbing guides!
North Wales has always been a popular destination for active climbers, but this year it will be the place to be, as a trio of inspiring new climbing guides hit the shops, just in time for the traditionally busy Easter holidays. Firstly, the North Wales Bouldering/Bowldro Gogledd Cymru guide, secondly and thirdly revamps of the Llanberis and the Clogwyn Du’r Arddu guide are due out any day now.North Wales Bouldering/Bowldro Gogledd Cymru
This brand new guide is authored by Llanberis based climber, Simon Panton. It is the first dedicated bouldering guide to the area, with over 1000 individual problems described at over 60 different venues. The guide features 130 photographs - many of which were taken by top local photographer, Ray Wood – and a ten page tick list of classic problems.
The guide also features a vast array of topos and maps completed in a darkly stylish graphic style. The distinctly gothic aesthetic is quite a departure from mainstream guidebooks, and is the result of a partnership with local designer Mark Lynden of Matrix 10.
Significantly this will be the first bilingual (English/Welsh) climbing guide to be produced – the translation work was sponsored by Snowdonia-Active.
Bouldering is in flight at the moment, and this remarkable book captures the spirit and energy of the local scene in all its glory.
(£18.95, Northern Soul) Llanberis
The previous Llanberis guide (1994) was written by the late Paul Williams (who was tragically killed climbing in 1995) with assistance from Iwan Arfon Jones. Iwan has now taken on the lead role as co-ordinating author of the new guide, assisted by a team of keen local activists. Iwan has had a major involvement in three of the current Climbers’ Club guidebook titles (Ogwen and Carneddau, Tremadog and Lleyn), and he is now one of the most prolific of the CC's guidebook authors.
Although there have been relatively few new routes since the 1994 guide (mainly short hard pitches on the south side of the Pass), a thorough reassessment of all the old routes has been made. Considerable historical research has been carried out for the guide, and numerous relevant (and often amusing) quotes have been added into to the first ascent section. A complete set of mostly new photodiagrams have been prepared for the new edition.
(£15.00, Climbers’ Club)Clogwyn Du’r Arddu
Nick Dixon’s homage to the mighty black cliff:– the magnificent and atmospheric crag on the Western slopes of Snowdon.
This is a fully researched and rewritten guidebook to this most hallowed of cliffs. Although the author Nick Dixon is famed for his very hard first ascents and repeats, he has also sought to raise the profile of many of the easier classics. Route descriptions are clear and concise, and supported by nearly twenty photodiagrams lovingly prepared by Don Sargeant. All known winter routes are included, with their first ascent details and some photographs.
Instead of the usual Historical, the extended Ascents Anthology has been expanded further with historical commentary by the author and numerous quotations and opinions on the routes from a number of current and recent Cloggy enthusiasts. The book gets off to a cracking start with Neil Gresham's riveting and personal account of his (the third) ascent of The Indian Face.
For the first time, a Climbers'Club guide is printed in full colour, enabling not only colour photos and several of the photodiagrams to be placed adjacent to the route descriptions they illustrate, but also some discreet colour coding in the text.
(£14.00, Climbers’ Club)
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